79 Puch Free Spirit Project

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79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:46 am

I'm a newbie DIY bike mechanic learning on a 1979 Puch Free Spirit.
It's a 2 hp, E50 engine.
14 mm Bing Carburetor with a #68 jet.
Most everything is stock for now, but that will change.

Well, I brought it out this spring to make sure it still runs; but it didn't.
A little starter fluid and it cranked right up... then died. So air, spark, compression. Where's the fuel? Tank is full. I pulled the fuel hose off the carb and opened the valve. No fuel from either on or reserve.

One of the things I like about the Free Spirit is that the tank is removable. So off it came along with the fuel valve:
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For such an old gas tank, I'm surprised at how clean it is. A little rust around the valve threads, but that's it. Fuel came out clean too. I was very excited to learn that the valve itself can be disassembled. The rubber parts were all good. Inside I found the channels full of gray stuff:
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I got that cleaned out and all the parts back together. Looks almost new:
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Got it all back together with fresh fuel. Turned on the valve and look what happened:
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Now the bike starts up without cheating with starter fluid, and seems to run ok. I'm losing power at full throttle, so more stuff will need to be checked.
Mike

1979 Puch Free Spirit
1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:50 pm

After cleaning the fuel valve, the bike starts easy, but the idle kept fluctuating. I decided to do some reading and watch some videos and clean up my carburetor. One thing I noticed is that the throttle feels "crunchy" somehow. Found out why:
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A little more disassembly, and I found a few more parts that I figured should be replaced. Although, the float needle appears in good condition. I've kept that as a spare.
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Ordered a few parts, and while waiting on shipping, continued disassebly and cleaning. New parts arrived! I got two top gaskets since they're thin and paper and look easy to break.
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If I remember right, these were purchased from 77 mopeds.

Got everything cleaned up and collected for reassembly:
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I managed to get it back together without any leftover parts!
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Well, the idle stabilized, but I couldn't adjust it with the screw. Checked around and discovered an air leak between the carb and the intake manifold. Try as I might, I just couldn't get it on tight enough to stop the leak. I finally installed an o-ring which sealed it up.
I haven't read or watched anything about there needing to be an o-ring or gasket between the carb and the intake, but how else would one keep air from leaking past that spot?
Now the idle adjustment responds great, so its time to move on to other issues...
Mike

1979 Puch Free Spirit
1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Fri Aug 09, 2013 2:35 am

I decided to work on the exhaust next.

Image

I've read that restrictions in the pipe can cause poor engine performance.
Looks like I've got fairly old parts. The baffle seal is an old asbestos chord.

Image

I found a new baffle and gaskets online, and cleaned up the rest of the parts.

Image

I got the old baffle open and discovered... no restrictions.

Image

So my poor engine performance must be something else.
Oh well, I got a shiny "new" tailpipe now, so I still win!

Image
Mike

1979 Puch Free Spirit
1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby John » Fri Aug 09, 2013 5:50 am

Here you go.... all cigar pipes the same.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Derestric ... xi_exhaust

Why didn't you just clean the old pipe and reinstall? Looks OK, should be able to sell it, not to me as I already have four!
John

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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Fri Aug 09, 2013 6:17 am

That's a great article, thanks for the link!

I didn't replace the header or pipe, just the baffle and gaskets.
Decided to keep the old baffle 'cause it never hurts to have a spare.
Glad to be rid of that old asbestos chord though. :)

I will definitely try out that de-restriction method.
Junk buildup was what I was looking for.
It had a good coating, but none of the ports or holes were plugged.
Mike

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1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby John » Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:16 am

Carb/brake cleaner will get rid of the gunk then flush and brush! Drill the holes in the baffle also.
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby Tab » Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:14 am

I didn't see an air cleaner. You do have one on there, right?
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Fri Aug 09, 2013 4:43 pm

I'm still using the stock air filter. It looks like a series of metal screens stacked upon one another. I suppose that's good for air flow, but how clean does that really keep the air? I'm used to seeing foam or paper filters.

Drilling holes in the baffle: you mean to make them bigger for less restriction? I wouldn't mind experimenting with that since I've got the original baffle and its in good shape. I would like to find a spare o-ring seal for it though. I haven't found any online yet.
Mike

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1987 Honda Rebel
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:50 am

I did a compression test on the engine and got 105 psi. Did a lot of searching for what it should be for a stock E50. Got a lot of info on compression ratio, but I still don't know what that means or how to test for it. The best I could do is figure that the compression should be somewhere between 90-120 psi. So I guess my compression is ok. Still, its easy enough to take the top end of the engine apart I figured I'd at least get stuff cleaned up.
Image

Had some nice build up to get rid of.
Image

The piston seamed ok.
Image

I found by the intake, that the cylinder had a light score. I could see it, but could barely "catch" it with my fingernail.
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Its easier to see in person than it is in the picture.

It makes sens to me that whatever could put such a scratch on the hard metal of the cylinder should do something to the aluminum piston.
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Well, the damage didn't make it all the way to the rings, so that is good news.

I've never taken a functional engine apart before, so I took my time and had fun looking at various things that I'd never seen before. At the time, (not very long ago) I didn't know that the air/fuel/oil mix entered under the piston, and I had expected to see transmission oil or something come out.
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This is what my crank assembly looks like. (I guess its ok.) I've just read, a couple days ago, that there is a hole on the other side that is supposed to allow the fuel mix to get around the back. I guess I'll check that next time...

I found a mini lathe that I think my grandfather once used to make watch parts. I managed to get the piston on it to make cleaning and polishing a little easier.
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Someday, I've got to get that cabinetry done!
Anyway, the piston cleaned up nice.
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The score is still there, but a little less pronounced. I was concerned that if I took enough material off the piston to get rid of the score, that it might no longer fit right in the cylinder.

Meanwhile, other parts were getting soaked in a hot pine-sol bath in an old deep-fryer.
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This made getting grime and such much easier to remove.
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It turned out pretty good.
Image
Not perfect, but way better than they started.

Got it all put back together with proper torques and all.
Image
I did another compression test and got... 107 psi. Wow! What am I gonna do with all that extra compression? Well, it started up, so I did another leak test. No leaks. About this same time, I also replaced the spark plug. The old one was pretty dirty, and I noticed the gap was a bit too wide.

Anyway, I took it for a little victory ride.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCEs5XJ0KWw
The top speed is still 26 mph, but the "4-stroking" has gone away. I used to get 30 mph on a flat road, and much sooner than it takes to get up to 26 mph now.

Also, I did the "oil in the cylinder" compression test, and got 107 psi again.
Well, it runs, anyway. :) I'll just have to keep tinkering...

Is there a way to embed You Tube videos in posts instead of just the link?
Mike

1979 Puch Free Spirit
1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby mopedlar » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:22 am

A stock E50 should have at least 120 psi compression. Did you check the ring gap to see if the rings are worn below spec?
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Tue Aug 13, 2013 7:56 am

Ok, I thought 107 psi might be a bit low. It didn't change when I put oil in the cylinder though. Not sure what that means.
I've not checked the ring gap. Didn't know there was such a thing at the time. It makes sense though. I'll check it next time I have it apart.



I was thinking of the old turn signals that had quit working a few years back, and decided to try to find them and see if I could get them working. I actually found the box I put them in and did a little troubleshooting.
Image
The battery pack was all corroded, and had leaked all over the little circuit board, and several wire connections were broken. Apart from that, It looked pretty salvageable.
A Google search yielded a nice generic diagram I could work with.
Image
So hooking things together, and connecting a 6V battery got me some good results:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCLp5Y9PzWA


I figure the circuit board must have been some kind of regulator to try to charge the battery pack from the moped's extra power. (Ha! What extra power would that be, anyway.) Well, they certainly won't run off the moped power, so another solution will be needed. I think I've found just the thing...
Mike

1979 Puch Free Spirit
1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby John » Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:39 am

might find this interesting....
http://www.mopedriders.org/viewtopic.php?p=89448
John

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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:48 am

Excellent reference, thanks!
So without the battery pack, the circuit board is unnecessary.

Well, I've decided to trade my points and magneto for a CDI and stator setup.
I've always been dissatisfied with the lack of electrical power on this bike.
And being 6 volt doesn't make things any easier. I found a kit at Treatland for E50 engines that yields 100W at 12V.
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I figure the worst thing that could happen is that I'd accidentally create a perpetual motion machine that would burn up the universe.
I guess its worth the risk if I get a brighter headlight out of the deal.
Image
Fits great! The protective rubber dust plug, or whatever its called, isn't shaped like the old one at all, and doesn't fit the hole where the wires come out of the engine. I'll need to address that at some point.

The new ignition coil got a new home.
Image

And the bike has a regulator/rectifier, which its never had before.
Image

Setting the timing will be interesting. I've never done that before.
And I lack the proper tools. Also, some planning is in order.
I need to use this new electrical power wisely, or I'll run out before I know it!
Mike

1979 Puch Free Spirit
1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby John » Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:00 pm

RTV silicon the wires at the stator to keep the crud and water out.
John

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re: 79 Puch Free Spirit Project

Postby RebelRider.Mike » Thu Aug 15, 2013 8:12 am

Good idea! The original rubber plug won't work without a lot of modification. Silicone will be much easier.

The Free Spirit is an interesting bike. It seems to be a sort of hybrid of the Maxi and Magnum. (Of course, I don't know much about either.) I think the frame is different than either though. Just from researching parts, the front end and the stand seem closer to Magnum specs, but it "looks" more like a Maxi. One bonus is the tank is removable.

I recently found a manual on eBay for Puch Maxi, which strangely enough, features a Free Spirit on the cover.
Image
This book has the Free Spirit in the back as a sort of sub-category, or special version, or something.

One great thing about the book is that it has a wiring diagram which matches the Free Spirit perfectly:
Image

Also, thanks to the folks here at this forum, I found the original wiring diagram for the BL-700 blinkers:
Image

Since the blinkers won't need a battery or the means to charge it, wiring them up will be much simpler. So I was able to come up with a rough idea as to how to wire things up to the new 12V power.
Image

Well, that's the plan, anyway. We'll see if it works.
The headlight will be upgraded to a 50W 1156 incandescent, and will get its own circuit.
The horn... I don't know how much power they use, so it also gets its own circuit.
All the other lights will be LEDs to save power for that "monster" headlight.
If I have any Watts left after all that, I'll have a spare circuit for accessories. Whatever those might be.

Of course, everything will be upgraded to 12V.
Mike

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1987 Honda Rebel
2014 Ural M70
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