What really happened on the 14th of August!

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What really happened on the 14th of August!

Postby ADEPTPUNK16 » Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:11 am

Then come and race and prove it!

I hear all this talk about 60mph mopeds but yet these mopeds never seem to make it to the races where it’s not about who can hit the highest speed, It’s who can get there the fastest!

Lets see who can keep up! But there are rules! Oh yes rules keep the game fare!

Here is what happened Sunday!

I finaly figured out why my ped really never ran to good this season. I had a fouled plug! I changed it before the first race and my bikes never been so fast! So the first race me and Chris S. were changing first and second the whole time. and the last few laps I gave it my all and took first!

The second race I was pumped up ready to go. At the start I jumped out in first. For the first four laps it was me in first with Chris S. again right behind me. Then I noticed my ped start to fall on its face on the back stretch. thats when Chris S. passed me and checked out! So there I am about the 6th lap when Chris from MWH jumps out in front of me and thats when I had to step up my riding and get my lead back.
The 8th lap I finaly got my lead back over Chris H. and held it. He had me pushing every turn. He tried to take me in in the last lap but I just stepped up once more and was able to come in second.

It was a great day of racing and couldn’t ask for better people to race with. But you all can join!

Bring it!

Moped Racing Association - tentative name?


1.What is a Moped?
2.Race Classes
3.Stock Class Engine & Chassis
4.Street-Racer/Modified Stock Engine & Chassis
5.Specials Class Engine & Chassis
6.General Safety Rules
-required attire
-safety wiring
-removed items
-marked with a sticker
7. Racing Rules
8. Points Scoring
9. Technical Contestation/Tear down
10. Numbers

1. What is a ‘Moped’? There’s a lot of debate on this issue, and lots of different laws, but for this racing league we’ve simplified it abit. A Moped: has a stock 50cc engine, and pedals to ride as a bicycle. Basically, if it looks like a moped, it is. If it doesn’t, it isn’t. Most mopeds are step-through like a scooter, but Mopeds that have a center-tank are allowed. 50cc Scooters and Motorcycles aren’t. So if you show up with say, an Aprilia RS50, you won’t be allowed to race with us, but a Puch Cobra will. -there are plenty of other leagues that will take the RS50, btw.

2. Race Classes: Racing will be scored in three classes: Stock, Modified Street & Specials. These classes will be run in the same heat until there are enough racers in each class to separate them. Right now, OYL requires four racers per heat minimum. Also, it is at the Race Directors discretion to separate or combine heats as needed.

3. Stock Class: Stock class is basically that.

Stock Class Engine:
-There are no aftermarket speed or overbore kits allowed, no special ignition, bore size is restricted to the maximum manufacturers’ oversize.
-Neither exhausts nor carburetors may be exchanged for aftermarket models. Carb and Exhaust must be stock.
-You are allowed to de-restrict the moped, if such restrictors are in place, you are allowed to interchange sprockets, variator weights, chains and belts.
-You are allowed to modify the cylinder transfer face, and radius cylinder ports, but induction period, port height and port duration must remain absolutely stock.

Stock Class Chassis: As with the engine, stock is basically that.

-With the exception of those things required to be removed for safety reasons, the chassis must remain relatively stock. Some drilling and or cutting is allowed, but the frame can't be 'chopped down'
-The Original Pedal assembly, fully operational, is Required.
-Foot pegs and rails may be added
-Brakes may be modified in any way to improve braking, with the exception of an aftermarket or custom made disc brake assembly. Those bikes that came stock with such a system, are of course legal.
-Seats may be exchanged.
-Wheels may be exchanged, provided the are of the same diameter and width and will accept both the stock fork and stock brake assembly.
-Slider Pegs may be added.
-Suspension and fork may be exchanged with other items from the same series/line of moped.( i.e. Si fork on a Ciao frame)

4. Modified Street Class: The idea here is that these are "modified street bikes", not just specials class racers with 50cc cylinders, the rules follow in that spirit. This is a Moped that retains an original manufacturers' 50cc cylinder and engine block, specific to that line of moped, but allows for modfication of the engine and some modification of the frame. In my mind's eye, this is like say, a street legal Sachs with a 17mm carb, enlarged manifold, Polini pipe, but stock cylinder, and stock frame.

Street-Racer Engine: The engine must retain the original block or cases per that frame -or of the same lineage of that moped. Engine cases are allowed to be exchanged with aftermarket cases adapted for reed-valve, etc.. as long as that case was specific to that moped. Polini Speed-Engine w' reed for Grande, Ciao is legal for Grandes & Ciaos. -but not bikes that originally used a different series of engine. Similarly, Cases and Cylinder are allowed to be adapted to recieve a larger carb, and reed valve assemblies, as long as the induction timing remains stock. Racers may use aftermarket sprockets, belts, variator weights to suit their needs.

Cylinder: The Street-Racer cylinder must be from the original manufacturer or OEM reproduction. There are no 50cc speed kits allowed. The induction and exhaust ports may be modified to accept aftermarket exhausts and manifolds.(port-matched) The cylinder transfer face may be ported, and both exhaust and main ports may be radiused. Induction, exhaust and transfers timing (height) must remain ABSOLUTELY stock. This applies to both cylinder and piston. Machined or aftermarket high-compression cylinder heads are also permitted for this class.

Other mods: Ignition may be modified, but must retain all original lightning coils. The addition of boost-bottles is permitted, the addition of overflow cans is encouraged if necessary. Tachometers and other gauges are permitted.

Chassis: Pedals for this class are optional. Foot Pegs may be added. Drop bars may be added, the headlamp and taillight may be removed. Tension bars are allowed, but not aftermarket gas tanks or fairings. Special seats may be added. Fork assembly and brake assembly may be modified, but must be original to that frame or moped family, i.e. Bravo fork on a Ciao, etc..

5. Specials Class: Go nuts, but the racer must still be basically a moped.

Specials Class Engine: The engine must retain the original block or cases per that frame or of another moped series. For example: Grande motor on a Motobecane = legal. Yamaha RZ350 motor on a Garelli = illegal.
-No capacity over 100cc will be permitted at this time.
-Nitrous Oxide and Nitro Methane fuel additives are illegal.

Specials Class Chassis: The chassis must be from an original moped.

-The ‘chassis’ must be the load-bearing body that connects the seat to the engine, to the front fork.
-All other modifications, chopping the frame, welding tension bars, etc... are legal, provided it is a modification of an original moped frame.
-The addition of non-moped gas tanks, seat, suspension, brakes are all legal.
-Wheel Diameter must not exceed 18"

6. General Safety Rules:

The basic idea with all safety rules is to prevent injury to the rider and anyone nearby. So that anything that can break, fall apart, leak, explode, cut or stab has be taken into account and duly suppressed. Its also important to protect the rider, and the appropriate gear must be worn.

Required Racing Attire:

-Leather Racing Suit, either one piece or two pieces that zip together completely at the waist. Though preferred, the suit doesn’t have to be leather, Kevlar and Fiber-based racing suits are permitted.
-Full face helmet of recent SNELL approval, with visor. If the helmet has no visor, (Motorcross style) shatter-proof goggles must be worn.
-Leather (or similar heavy-duty material) boots that extend past the ankles. Doc Martens, etc.. are fine.
-Well Fitted Leather (again, or similar animal-friendly alternative material) gloves that extend past the wrist. Work gloves are not encouraged, and race-specific gloves are preferred.
-Back braces are strongly encouraged, though not required.

Because of the wide variety of engine styles, chassis, and all of the variations between moped models, a standardized Technical inspection will be difficult. Safety Wire is the preferred method of securing bike parts. Other methods, like Nylock nuts, Threadlock, even gasket Cement may replace safety wiring when it is necessary to do so. The following items must be addressed somehow, preferrably safety-wired or by other means:

-oil fill plug
-oil drain plug
-rear suspension bolts
-front hub bolt -or replaced with a nylock nut.
-Handlebar mounting bolts -or replaced with a nylock nut.

The reason these items must be safety-wired, is to prevent separation during a race or a wreck. Obviously, if your wheel fell off in a race -that would be bad. And if you wrecked and your engine leaked oil everywhere, that could cause others to wreck, and then we’d still have to clean up the track, and that also, would be bad. Safety-wiring is just a little bit of extra insurance that everything is going to stay together. Even if the safety wire itself would not hold a part, the attention given to that item during the wiring process adds confidence in it's integrity.

The following items must be removed:

-center stand or side-stand
-any extraneous racks...if your moped has a rack built into the frame, it may remain, but any spring-loaded arms or periphery must be removed.
-license plate bracket
-extraneous reflectors. not all reflectors, just the extraneous ones
-Headlamp and Taillight may remain on the bike, but must be covered with an ‘X’ of a durable tape, covered entirely with a durable tape, or just removed.

Like safety wiring, these items are removed for your safety. Should you wreck, you would want as few things to stab or cut you as possible. Or mess up your bike if you land on them, or scatter across the track. The idea is to keep the racing mopeds themselves as simple as possible.

With a sticker or brightly colored tape:
-Mark the kill switch with the word ‘KILL’
-Mark the on and off positions on the fuel tap with a big ‘ON’ and ‘OFF’

You ought to mark these things so that a corner worker can shut off the fuel to your engine, and stop the engine from running should you wipe out. If you wreck and can’t reach the fuel tap or kill switch, while the engine is still running and gas pouring all over your head, the corner worker can stop you from becoming a big Hollywood explosion.

All levers: Brakes, clutch, decompression, etc... and throttle must quickly close after being depressed or turned. No sticky brakes or throttles. Levers should be of the ‘ball end’ variety, no pointy levers, also, levers should not extend more than ½" beyond the handlebar.

Special Notice: As of June 26th, 2004: racers whose mopeds lose parts during a race (air filter, silencer can, etc..) are subject to an automatic DNF (did not finish) This is yet another reason to thoroughly race-prep your bike. Lock it Down !!

7. Racing Rules

Showing up on time not only allows you more practice time, but reduces the workload on those administering the race. Please be sure to register and complete the necessary paperwork as quickly as possible. Racers who miss the alotted registration period will not be allowed to race that day. Also necessary are the Riders' Meetings, which review rules and special conditions for that day. This is mandatory for rookies and veterans alike.

Grid positions in the first heat will be drawn at random, probably drawing numbers out of a hat. Grid position in the second heat will be in reverse finishing order. Fastest people in the back, slowest up front. Grid position in any following heats will be in reverse finishing order based on the previous heat. (This may be reversed if OYL or our sanctioning organization decides to)

Starting procedure-
Typically, The Starter will direct racers out of the ‘pit’ lane for one warm up lap. That warm up lap may be waived by the Starter at certain events. Upon approach to the grid, the Starter will point to you and then to your grid position, once all racers have been directed to their positions, the Starter will walk off the track and begin the countdown.

Countdown goes as follows: The starter holds up a ‘2' card, then flips it around to a ‘1' ,then twists it sideways, drops the card & then immediately waves The Green flag and the race has begun. At ‘2' racers whose bikes stall or for whatever reason can’t race -can put up their hand to get the starter’s attention. Once the starter sees you, point to your bike and when given the ‘ok’, walk the bike around to the back of the grid to restart your Moped, or if needed, exit the track. At ‘1' on out, you must wait until the field takes off to restart or exit the track.

The Green Flag: The race has begun, get moving.
Crossed Green and White Flags: The race is half over.
The White Flag: Only One lap remains.
The Checkered Flag: Someone has won, the race is over.
Upon passing the checkered flag, take one more lap as a ‘cool down’ lap then exit the track.
The Yellow Flag: Someone has wiped out, proceed with caution
The Red Flag: Someone wiped out hardcore, return to the starting grid ASAP, the race may be restarted.
The Black Flag: better before Rollins, - anyway, you did something stupid and you need to knock it off.
The Waving Black Flag: you keep doing something stupid, exit the track and talk to the race director.
The Rolled Up Black Flag, pointed at you: You did something really stupid, stop immediately and go home.
(I’ve never myself seen a black flag for anyone racing, this is for ridiculous and flagrant behavior, like punching a guy while racing or cutting across the track, jousting etc..)

If you wreck: If you wreck during a race, the first thing is to check yourself and your health. Get up if you can and make sure you’re ok. The second thing is to get you and your bike off the track. Once off the track, review your bike. Check to make sure all the levers are working, nothing’s broken, twisted, leaking, cracked etc... If your bike looks, smells, feels and acts ok, then you are clear to restart your moped and renter the race as soon as it is prudent to do so. After the race is over, go see the technical inspector, and re-tech the bike. If you restart a race and your bike is actually messed up to the point where you shouldn’t have been racing, you will lose your points for that race and possibly other punitive measures. (Basically; don't race an unsafe bike) If you wreck and you or your moped is broken, walk the bike around the track back to the pit area, or cross the track when there is no traffic and the corner worker clears you. If you’re injured a corner worker will meet you and radio in the appropriate medical help.

8. Points Scoring

First Off, racing just for points is lame. If you are racing, you’re racing to have a good time on the track and for the respect and camaraderie you earn while doing it, whether you’re super good or totally slow. The slowest racer is still faster than anyone who isn’t out there racing. Our points scoring system will be broken down as follows, in a structure that encourages participation and consistency.

First Place = 10 points.
Second Place = 9 points
Third Place = 8 points

...and so on and so forth. Should the field grows beyond ten racers per class, the first place winner receives as many points as there are racers per class + 1, second place one less and so on and so forth. This system of points encourages participation at many events rather than a good day at just one well-attended event. Also, Should you field a racer in a heat, wipe out and can't finish the race, this is called DNF (did not finish) most leagues award zero points for a DNF, This league awards One point for a DNF, because showing up and racing is definitely worth something, even if you didn't finish the race.

Special Events Points- Should there be a one-time only racing event, or an irregular event that varies from the typical Road Course racing that is our 'bread and butter' , Points' structure will be tailored to that event, and generally reduced in value by 50% and both points structure and event details will be announced as soon as it is humanly possible. Such events may be: Cannonball Run- Road racing events, Drag Racing, etc... This is simply to allow for the possibility of multiple types of events.

9. Technical Contestation:

At the end of the race day, if a racer feels that another racers’ Moped is illegally prepared, he or she may request a Technical Contestation. This is only available to racers within a class who raced against one another. The fee is $30, to prevent any frivolous challenges and to help pay for replacement gaskets, seals, etc.. If a moped if is found to be illegal, that racer will lose their all points on the day. If the contested moped is found to be legal, then that racer receives the $30 fee.

Stock Class/ Modified Street Class Tear down: The winners of the these classes should anticipate the removal and examination of the moped’s cylinder. This Tear down can be waived per the race director’s discretion.

10. Numbers

In order to identify mopeds at great length for scoring purposes, each racer must select a number of at least one digit (duh) and no more than three. Numbers must be of at least 4" height (6" is preferable) and set against a high contrast plate or outline of at least 1" on all sides. Like Black on Yellow or Red on White, etc.. Numbers must be in a standard, highly identifiable font. (No calligraphy or hard to read numbers) After the first season, Racers may use the previous seasons’ overall points standings as their number designation. If a racer waives his points-number, it then becomes the discretion of the next racer in the points’ standings. Basically, if you want to be #1, you have to ask permission from everyone who scored higher than you.
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2003 70cc Tomos Targa LX.
1976 Puch Maxi S
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