tomos no spark/need help

[Smitty]

[goldenhoops]

Yep, did that, and still no luck getting the Targa to start. Have we boiled it down to the CDI?

[Smitty]

[goldenhoops]

[Smitty]

There ya' go, multimeters are one of those tools that you may not use that often, but they sure do come in handy when you need one!
It will have instructions on how to use the unit included with it.

As for testing the magneto for voltage output, you'd set the multimeter to volts (or voltage) / ac (you'll have to determine what range by the meter, but definitley low-voltage, as DonP pointed out it will be only about 3-6 volts maybe), connect the black lead from the meter to ground on the bike or preferably the engine itself, and the red lead to the black wire coming from the magneto (the one that you connected to the red wire to the coil), and with the spark plug out (to make it easier to spin the engine), kick the pedal backward like trying to start the engine, while watching the meter for a voltage reading.

Now to test for continuity, resitance, or complete circuit, switch the multimeter to "ohms" ( a sort-of horseshoe looking symbol), and connect one lead to one end and the other lead to the other end of what you are testing (the plug wire, the plug boot metal connectors, etc.). If you get a reading, then you have a good wire, boot, etc., but if the meter does not change, then the connection is "open", broken, will not pass electricity. I do not know what the ohm reading should be on the actual coil itself. DO NOT put any voltage to the meter while it is in the "ohms" setting, as this will burn-out most multimeters.

Hope this helps.

[donp]

kristen, why don't you peel back some of the shield on the wire so that the wire itself is exposed, then have someone hold that exposed piece of wire near the head as the engine is turned over. if just the boot is bad, you can buy a replacement from any lawn mower shop, sears, or auto parts store. hold the wire 1/8"-1/4" away from the head when trying this, and if a spark jumps to the wire, without the boot attached, that will save you alot of money. if no spark, then i'd say you definetly need a new coil. but, i don't see anywhere in this threadf where you tested power output on the black wire from the magneto. you might want to verify that before buying anything too. the meter you found at sears will work for this too.

[ScorpionPrince]

Change the spark plug to a

[goldenhoops]

Finally, I had the money to actually order a new CDI. I wasn't able to test the magneto coil. I don't have any metric tools to do so. I ended up ordering from 1977 mopeds, as that was the only place that had one available. Should be here tomorrow or Friday. I am hoping this will resolve the starting issue with my moped. It's sat since the end of June. I am praying to the moped Gods this works.

[don-ohio]

Kirsten,I hope this isn't one of those cases where everyone forgets to tell the poster about the taillight bulb that can blow and kill the ignition? I dunno if it applies to your bike,but make sure the taillight bulb is good. don-ohio

[goldenhoops]

No one had told me that. I will have to check tomorrow. I thought all lights were working, but it's possible something may have happened. How would I check that? If I kick it and I don't see it working, what's next? The voltage regulator? Wiring?

[don-ohio]

No,I'm just talking about a burned out TAIL light bulb,which on older Tomos' caused a no-spark condition as a `safety feature. So just check the taillight bulb. don-ohio

[John]

Its a 2001 Tomos. Don't believe the tailight bulb will have any bearing on starting this bike. Its deeper than that.

[goldenhoops]

Before the Tomos died, I do remember having to rev the engine to keep it going when it first started up. I am also missing one of the side covers ((the one that covers the carburator I believe)). I also just filled the oil jug with new 2-cycle oil. I have since learned that I should disconnect the auto oil injection because I have read they are crap?? I haven't done that yet because 1) I don't know how to, and 2) I have researched the proper mix ratio.

I'm sure you can feel my frustration here. I have only been able to ride it 5 times since I bought it. It was a happy birthday to me present, as I turn 30 in a few weeks.

[donp]

are you sure that you have a spark issue?
i see where you say you have to rev it to keep it running when you start it up. that is a sign of a loose intake bolt/s. the 4 bolts around the intake, where the reed valve is held in place against the cylinder, are notorious for coming loose. when this happens, the engine gets harder to start and runs lean.
the oil injection system is junk in my opinion. the pump is ok, but the rest of it is crap. and it pumps too lean at 50:1. removing it is a good idea. the most important thing you must do is to install a bolt with sealer, into the intake pipe where the oil line hooked up. then drain the gas from the tank, and the carb. premix your gas at 40:1, and you will never have to worry about your top end being damaged by a lack of oil should something fail.

[goldenhoops]

Don, forgive me for the lack of intelligence when it comes to mechanical terms. I'm new to mopeds and mechanics in general. I am sure that I don't have a spark because I've followed a video on how to ground a spark plug properly and look for a spark, tried to bypass the kill switch--no spark.. even stuck a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole and nothing....Not a bite.

I'm not sure what the parts are you are talking about, or even where they are located. I do have a manual, so perhaps that is the best place to start. It sucks living up here in Vermont where you feel like you're the only moped rider around, and there's nowhere to take it to get it worked on. Even places that work on lawnmowers won't touch my moped.